Kathmandu, 7 Jul: With the onset of the monsoon season, a unique flavor that once held a special place in the kitchens of the Tharu community in Kanchanpur—the Phutki mushroom—is now fading into memory rather than remaining a regular delicacy.
In earlier years, especially following forest fires in sal (Shorea robusta) forests, Phutki mushrooms would grow in abundance. Today, however, finding them has become increasingly rare. “Once the rains started, groups of women and children would head into the forest to gather large quantities of Phutki,” recalls local resident Hawaldar Chaudhary. “That scene is seldom seen nowadays.”
According to him, stricter restrictions on forest access, the impact of climate change, and increasing human pressure have all contributed to the mushroom’s decline. Now, harvesting in community forests requires permits, and entry into protected areas is prohibited. Even those who sneak into the forest report that Phutki mushrooms have nearly vanished.
Locally known as Patpura, Phutki is used by the Tharu community in a wide variety of dishes, including curries, pickles, grilled items (sekuwa), stir-fries (bhutuwa), dried forms (sukuti), and stews (pakuwa). A traditional Tharu dish called kapuwa is prepared by mixing Phutki with wheat or rice flour and cooking it.
Knowledge of which mushrooms are edible has been passed down for generations within the Tharu community. This inherited wisdom has made them skilled at using forest resources safely and sustainably, says Hawaldar. Due to its scarcity in the market, the price of Phutki has now reached between NPR 400 and NPR 1,300 per kilogram, according to Bandhuram Chaudhary.
Tharu people
“The nature-worshiping Tharu people have long given space in their kitchens to forest products like mushrooms and medicinal herbs,” he says, “but these natural resources are now in decline.”
Community leader Pardeshi Chaudhary explains that Phutki belongs to the fungi family and thrives in the moist environment brought by monsoon rains. Rich in protein and easy to digest, it is also considered beneficial for health.
Within the Tharu community, Phutki is known to have two varieties—Jalewa, which is white in color, and Bhotail, which is black or brown. Elders say that even peacocks are particularly fond of the inner flesh of the Phutki mushroom.
“Phutki mushroom is not merely a seasonal delicacy but an integral part of the Tharu community’s culture and way of life,” said Tharu leader Rewan Chaudhary. “Now that it is on the verge of disappearing, its preservation has become essential.”
