Kathmandu, 27 May: Last Thursday, the 7th of May, we were at Camp 4. We had reached there with preparations to summit Everest, but the weather turned unfavorable. The conditions were so bad that we couldn’t even step outside our tents.
Time was running out for our Everest ascent. We were already running low on oxygen and other supplies. Our deadline was also approaching. If the weather didn’t improve and our stay prolonged, our entire expedition could have been canceled. That would have shattered my dream, as climbing Everest had been my unwavering goal.
Back in 2016, I had attempted to climb Everest but was placed in the marathon team instead of the climbing group. At that time, the Everest Marathon was being held. I serve in the Indian Army and work as an instructor at the National Institute of Mountaineering in India, where we train people in mountain climbing. Under this institute, seven instructors from four schools joined this expedition.
On April 18, we successfully climbed Lobuche Peak (6,119m). After this, we began preparing for Everest.
In the mountains, you must acclimatize to the thin air and extreme cold. The process involves multiple phases: staying at Base Camp, moving to Camp 1, returning, then proceeding to Camp 2, and so on. This cycle helps the body adjust before finally attempting Camp 4 and the summit push.
At high altitudes, the body faces severe challenges—loss of appetite, insomnia, and nausea at the smell of food. Just when you need maximum energy, exhaustion sets in due to relentless trekking, sleeplessness, and lack of nutrition. Yet, we had to push forward.
Despite the bad weather, while other climbers held back, our team and Sherpas decided to ascend. It was 5:30 PM when we set off. The previous days had been harsh, and the path was strewn with corpses—a grim sight that weighed on our minds. But reminding myself, “Beyond fear lies victory,” we pressed on.
The next morning at 4:45 AM, we stood atop Everest.
For me, this was a new chapter in life—the fulfillment of a childhood dream. We stayed there for about 20 minutes.
Descending is harder than climbing. By the summit, all energy is spent, and the weakened body faces greater risks. In fact, more deaths occur during descent. Still, we managed to return safely, cherishing this life-changing achievement.
